This week’s Journal entry will be part of a five-part series we’re calling ‘The Perfect Fit’. We’ll run through each aspect of achieving the ultimate look for any occasion requiring a suit. This week we’ll look at the suit jacket, with further weeks delving into the suit pants, tailored shirts, dress shoes and finally accessories.
Choosing the perfect suit jacket can be overwhelming. It is an important piece of attire. It can be dressed up with a three-piece, or dressed down with chinos.
There are three essential ingredients for a quality suit jacket: (1) fit; (2) fabric; and (3) construction.
This article focuses on fit. A custom tailored suit is crucial to guarantee the perfect fit. The Suit Society takes twenty measurements, from your neck to your ankle, to ensure the perfect fit and to guarantee you look dapper and well fitted for any occasion.
Whether you are trying to become more informed for your next suit purchase, or trying to figure out whether your current collection is in dire need of being re-tailored, knowing the six fit components of a suit is fundamental.
1
The shoulder pads must end with your shoulders. If there are divots (too large) or lumps (too small) on the shoulder pad it is a sign of the shoulders being made too small or too large.
2
The top button must not fall below your belly button.
3
The jacket sleeve should be inline with the bottom of your jacket or alternatively the the bottom of the jacket should be inline with your crotch. Sometimes length is a personal preference and can depend on ones arm length and torso length.
4
The jacket sleeve should end at the base of your thumb, allowing for half an inch of your shirt cuff to be visible.
5
The jacket collar should rest comfortably against your shirt collar without a gap. Common causes of the collar not resting properly can be the size of the jacket collar, chest and shoulder measurements.
6
The top button should close easily without causing an x-shaped crease across the torso of your jacket. If a crease appears the stomach and waist measurement is too tight.
Carry on Gentlemen
Suit Society
