Definitive Guide to Purchasing a Tailored Suit
Guide to Purchasing a Tailored Suit: Comprehensive Advice for Acquiring the Perfectly Fitted Suit
If you’re here, you’ve likely chosen to forego buying a suit off the rack, opting instead to invest in something custom-made exclusively for you. Congratulations on placing your trust in professional stylists and tailors. We, at Suit Society, aim to dispel any uncertainties and answer your remaining questions by providing a detailed look into the intricacies of acquiring your impeccably tailored suit.
This thorough guide aims to acquaint you (and put you at ease) with the steps involved in the bespoke process, acquaint you with the array of customisable options, and instil confidence in your decisions.
Let’s dive in!
Determining Suit Style and Fit
Embarking on the journey to procure a perfectly tailored suit begins with identifying the appropriate style and fit for your new garment. Consider the occasion for which you require the suit – whether it’s for work, leisure, a social gathering, or a wedding. Different occasions necessitate varying styles; a suit suitable for business meetings may differ significantly from one intended for a countryside wedding.
Additionally, contemplate the message you wish to convey with your attire. Are you aiming to make a statement in the workplace or maintain a contemporary look at a social event? Furthermore, take into account your local climate, as it will heavily influence your choice of fabric.
These considerations serve as crucial indicators that will guide the creation of your bespoke suit. While you needn’t be a style expert, adept stylists will expertly navigate this decision-making process, assisting you in determining the ideal style for you.
Main Suit Styles
Depending on your preferences and needs, you may opt for one of two fundamental styles for your tailored suit:
Single-Breasted Suit
Featuring a single column of buttons and a narrow fabric overlap, the single-breasted suit exudes a conservative and versatile appearance suitable for both business and social settings.
Double-Breasted Suit
In contrast, the double-breasted suit boasts two columns of buttons with a significant overlap of fabric on the left and right sides. While ideal for achieving a formal and business-oriented look, it’s less adaptable than its single-breasted counterpart. Occasionally, this style may include two additional buttons at the top, one on each side of the lapels.
Selecting the Right Suit Construction and Fabric
Having established the style and fit, it’s time to make crucial decisions regarding your suit’s construction and fabric.
Jacket Construction
The manner in which your jacket is constructed significantly influences its overall quality and how well it conforms to your body. Let’s examine the three basic constructions:
Fused Suit Jacket
Featuring fusible interlining glued to the visible outer fabric, fused jackets are quick and inexpensive to produce but may lack the desired conformity to the wearer’s body.
Half-Canvassed Suit Jacket
Combining cost efficiency with a natural drape, half-canvassed jackets feature a thin fused layer on the front panel and a canvassing material stitched to the upper half. This construction strikes a balance between quality and affordability.
Full-Canvassed Suit Jacket
The epitome of tailoring, full-canvassed jackets boast a canvass extending across the entire front panel, providing superior drape and mobility. However, this option comes with a substantial cost.
I remember the first time I invested in a full-canvassed suit jacket. The difference in quality and comfort was immediately noticeable. Despite the higher cost, the enhanced fit and durability made it a worthwhile investment, ensuring I felt confident and stylish on every occasion.
Suit Fabric
The outer fabric of your suit determines its appearance and performance in various conditions. Consider factors such as breathability, durability, and formality when selecting your fabric.
Material
Common suit fabrics include wool, cotton, linen, or microfiber for the outer layer, and silk or Bemberg for the inner lining. Each fabric offers distinct properties suited to different needs and preferences.
Colour
Choose suit colours based on the occasion and frequency of wear. While black suits are versatile for occasional wear, charcoal grey and navy blue are ideal for regular formal use due to their timeless appeal.
When selecting the fabric for my first bespoke suit, I opted for a charcoal grey wool blend. Its versatility allowed me to wear it for various occasions, from business meetings to weddings, without feeling out of place. Plus, the fabric’s breathability kept me comfortable even during warmer seasons.
Customisation Options for Suit Composition
Now that you’ve addressed style, fit, construction, and fabric, let’s delve into the customisable elements that define your suit’s composition.
Suit Jacket Customisations
Tailor your suit jacket to your preferences with customisations such as:
- Front and sleeve buttons
- Lapel style
- Vents
- Side & ticket pockets
- Lining options
- Shoulder padding or natural
- Chest Darts
- Pic Stitching
- Inner Pockets
One of my favourite customisations is selecting the lining fabric for my suit jacket. It’s a subtle yet personal touch that adds character to the garment. I once chose a bemberg lining with a paisley pattern, reflecting my love for classic aesthetics with a modern twist.
Waistcoats
While optional, waistcoats add elegance and versatility to your ensemble, particularly for formal occasions.
I’ve found that incorporating a waistcoat into my suit ensemble elevates the overall look, making me feel more confident and put-together, especially during important events like job interviews or client meetings. Waistcoats are also a great way to show a point a difference for Grooms in Wedding parties.
Trousers
Personalise your trousers with options including front style, waistband, hem, belt loops, adjustable side tabs, fabric or lining saddle, heel guard, cuffs, and trouser break.
For my trousers, I prefer a flat front style with belt loops for added versatility. Additionally, opting for a slight break at the trouser hem ensures a clean and polished appearance without overwhelming my frame.
Accessories
Enhance your suit with accessories such as neckties, dress shoes, pocket squares, cufflinks, and hats.
I’ve always believed that accessories are the finishing touches that complete a suit ensemble. Whether it’s a classic silk tie or a statement pocket square, each accessory adds personality and flair to my outfit, allowing me to express my individual style.
Conclusion
Having explored the various aspects of purchasing a tailored suit, from style selection to customisations, you’re well-equipped to make informed decisions. Remember, the devil is in the details when it comes to men’s suits, so take your time and enjoy the process of creating your perfect ensemble.
