Suits for Tall Men: Getting the Length and Proportions Right
Tall men tend to know the problem before anyone explains it. Sleeves that stop halfway down the wrist. Jackets that end above the seat. Trousers that hit the top of the shoe and stop there. Then, when you do find a “long” size, it’s cut for a much bigger man, so you’re swimming in fabric through the body.
Off the rack sizing assumes that height and width grow together. For many tall men, they don’t. Here is what a suit for a tall frame should do, where standard sizes go wrong, and the specific choices that make a tall man look in proportion rather than stretched.
The quick answer
A suit for a tall man should have sleeves long enough to show a little shirt cuff, a jacket that covers the seat, trousers with a clean break at the shoe, and a body cut to his actual chest and waist rather than scaled up from a shorter pattern. Proportion matters as much as length: button stance, lapel width and pocket placement all need to scale with height.
Where off the rack goes wrong
Standard suits come in regular, and sometimes short and long, fittings. A long fitting adds a few centimetres to the jacket and sleeves, but it rarely changes anything else. That causes three common problems.
The body is too wide. If you’re tall and slim, a jacket long enough in the sleeves is often cut for a heavier man, so it billows at the waist.
The proportions are off. The buttons, pockets and lapel notch stay where they’d be on a shorter jacket, which makes the torso look out of balance.
The trousers are too short in the rise. Extra leg length often isn’t matched with extra rise, so the trousers sit low and pull at the seat.
Alterations can lengthen sleeves a little and let down a hem, but only as far as the fabric allows, and jacket length can’t be added at all. Our guide to suit alterations explains those limits.
The jacket
Length
A tall man’s jacket should cover his seat. If it finishes higher, his legs look disproportionately long and the jacket looks borrowed from a shorter man. A useful check: with your arms relaxed at your sides, the hem of the jacket should sit around the middle of your hand.
Sleeves
Sleeves should finish at the wrist bone, showing roughly a centimetre of shirt cuff. Tall men often have long arms relative to their height, and left and right arms can differ slightly. A custom pattern accounts for both.
Button stance and pockets
The top button of a single breasted jacket should sit at or just above the natural waist. On a tall frame, that point is higher in absolute terms than on a standard pattern. Pockets should be placed to suit your torso length rather than a fixed measurement. Get this right and the jacket looks designed for you.
Lapels
Very narrow lapels can look skinny on a tall, long torso. A medium to slightly wider lapel balances height and gives the chest presence.
Shoulders
Tall, slim men can benefit from a little structure in the shoulder to add width and balance. Tall men with broad shoulders usually look better with a natural shoulder that doesn’t add bulk.
The trousers
Length and break
The break is the small fold where the trouser meets the shoe. A slight break or no break looks sharp and modern. Too much fabric pooling at the ankle makes legs look shorter and heavier; too little shows sock when you walk. Decide at the fitting with your own shoes on.
Rise
A higher rise suits tall men. It keeps the trousers sitting at the waist rather than slipping down, and balances the length of the leg with the torso.
Turn ups
Cuffs (turn ups) suit taller men well. They add a little weight at the hem, help the trouser hang straight, and visually break up a long leg.
Fabric and pattern
Tall men can carry pattern well. Checks, windowpanes and textured cloths add visual width and work better on a long frame than on a shorter one. Strong vertical pinstripes can make a tall, slim man look even taller, so choose them deliberately.
Contrast between jacket and trousers, such as a navy blazer with grey trousers, also breaks up height nicely for smart casual dressing.
A three piece suit is another useful option. The waistcoat bridges the gap between jacket and trousers and gives the torso structure.
Don’t forget the shirt
Shirts have the same problem as jackets: a sleeve long enough for a tall man usually comes with a body far too wide. A made to measure shirt solves this by cutting sleeve length, body width and shirt length independently, so it stays tucked through a long day.
Why made to measure solves it
For tall men, made to measure isn’t a luxury. It’s the most direct route to a suit that fits in every direction at once.
Every made to measure suit at Suit Society is cut from your measurements, with posture and proportion taken into account, so sleeve length, jacket length, button position and rise are all set for your frame rather than adapted from a shorter one. If you’re also broad through the chest and shoulders, our guide to suits for athletic builds covers those fixes too.
Every suit is covered by our Perfect Fit Guarantee, with no cap on alterations, and two piece suits start from $1,085 on our current price list.
Book a complimentary consultation at your nearest studio, or start by video with our Virtual Tailor.
Frequently asked questions
How long should a suit jacket be for a tall man? Long enough to cover the seat. With your arms relaxed at your sides, the jacket hem should sit around the middle of your hand.
What suit style suits tall men best? A single breasted, two button jacket with a medium lapel, a higher trouser rise and a slight break is a reliable starting point. Tall men also carry checks, textured cloth and three piece suits well.
Should tall men wear pinstripes? They can, but strong vertical stripes emphasise height. Checks and textured fabrics add balance if you’d rather not look taller.
Can an off the rack suit be altered for a tall man? Partly. Sleeves and trousers can usually be let down a little, but jacket length can’t be added and body proportions can’t be changed. Made to measure avoids those limits.
